Origin: Ten years ago, the smog in Hangzhou was still severe. Our four-month-old daughter had a fever and we took her to the hospital. After waiting in line at the pediatric clinic outside the hospital for over two hours, the doctor told us that air quality was the main cause. Soon we decided to quit our jobs and find a better environment for our daughter to live in. Dali was not our first choice. A friend from Fuyuan, Yunnan, who had lived in Dali for a while, suggested we go there first, so we decided to cycle there. Since the destination was uncertain, cycling was the most flexible and meaningful way. If we found a place we liked along the way, we could stop and settle down to build a life. From Yongxiu, Jiangxi to Dali, we cycled nearly 2,300 kilometers over more than 20 days. Below is the log and photos from the first leg of our cycling journey to Dali in 2014, from Yongxiu County, Jiangxi to Xinhuang Dong Autonomous County, Hunan: On the morning of September 20, 2014, with our parents and daughter seeing us off, we began our first cycling trip as a couple. Although our family expressed their disapproval and pessimism about this trip, when we actually set off, they gave us their greatest encouragement and care. Especially our young daughter, as if she knew we were going far away, woke up early and silently watched us leave in the quiet dawn. And we could only endure the pain of parting and disappear into the thick twilight.
Crossing hills and plains, I gradually understood: life is like cycling, full of uphill challenges and downhill releases. But what we yearn for most is that smooth journey. In tranquility, we realize that true life is not about grandeur, but about lasting peace.
Day 1, 2014.09.20, Yongxiu County - Xiushui County, 150 km cycled
Woke up at 5 am, set off at 5:40. National Highway 316 was right at our doorstep.
The first 20+ kilometers had slight ups and downs, but the slopes were not steep, which was a good start for us. From the Wuning Zhelin Reservoir area, there were more mountain roads. We struggled to ride to the first hilltop and overlooked the Zhelin Reservoir dam.
On the second long slope, my physical strength was clearly failing. My hands and feet were numb, my head dizzy, and I was starving. I forced myself to ride to the top, where Juanjuan had been waiting for a long time, sitting by the roadside. After wolfing down some bread to relieve myself, I recovered a bit. This was the result of sitting in front of a computer for most of the year.
Zhelin Lake, also known as Lushan West Sea, is similar to Qiandao Lake in Zhejiang. There are many small islands in the lake, with pleasant scenery, fresh air, beautiful environment, and clear water.
Day 2, 2014.09.21, Xiushui County - Miluo City, 139 km cycled
Due to excessive physical exertion, we didn't sleep well all night. We got up at 5 am and set off at 5:30. As soon as we got on the bikes, the pedals slipped, and we realized something was wrong with the bike. Looking at the flywheel, we understood that something had been stuck last night when we rode out, and we had pedaled hard, causing a hook from the pannier to get caught and loosen the flywheel. We planned to go to a bike shop to see if it could be fixed, but it was too early. We tried to handle it ourselves and barely continued. From Xiushui, the road was flat with few uphill sections. Xiushui was surrounded by mountains and heavy fog. Passing a river near Xiushui, it showed the gentle temperament of Jiangnan.
After cycling for over 8 km, we passed a small village. I've forgotten its name now, only leaving this picture of beautiful scenery.
Zhajin Town was surprising. The scale of this small town was comparable to a county town, with all kinds of facilities, well-planned, with flat and wide roads, clean and tidy.
After leaving Daqiao Town, we entered Longmen Town, Pingjiang County in Hunan Province. We had lunch and rested in Longmen Town.
When we cycled to Daqiao Town, we found that the rear tire was completely flat. We got off and changed the tire.
Shortly after leaving Longmen Town, we found the rear tire was flat again. We pumped it up and found the tire was damaged, probably punctured. We didn't bring tire repair tools. We asked a passerby and learned that the nearest repair shop was 4 km away, so we hitchhiked to Pingjiang for repairs. From Pingjiang to Miluo, there were still over 60 km. After repairing the bike, it was already 4:30 pm. Since it was still early, we decided to continue. We arrived in Miluo city at 8:30 pm. After dinner, we found a police station nearby to set up our tent and slept peacefully through the night.
Day 3, 2014.09.22, Miluo City - Taojiang County, 125 km cycled
Woke up at 5:30 am, set off at 6 am. We had entered the Dongting Lake plain area, so cycling was not very strenuous. By noon, we had cycled 80 km. This was the police station where we set up our tent the previous night.
In early autumn, the rural morning scene on the outskirts of Miluo City. Such a soft and beautiful sunrise was unforgettable.
When we cycled to Xiangyin County, we saw the Dongting Lake scenery. The river entering the lake was crystal clear.
Yueyang Tower is an ancient city tower located on the west gate of the ancient city of Yueyang, Hunan Province, China. It overlooks Dongting Lake, faces Junshan Island in front, and leans against the Yangtze River to the north. It is mainly famous for Fan Zhongyan's "Record of Yueyang Tower" and has the reputation of "Dongting Lake under heaven, Yueyang Tower under heaven." Yueyang Tower was first built around 220 AD. Its predecessor is said to be the "Reviewing Troops Tower" of Lu Su, a general of Eastern Wu during the Three Kingdoms period. During the Western Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, it was called "Baling City Tower," and in the mid-Tang Dynasty, it was first called "Yueyang Tower." Yueyang Tower is the only ancient building among the three famous towers in Jiangnan that maintains its original appearance. In January 1988, it was designated as a national key cultural relic protection unit by the State Council of China, and in 2001, it was rated as a national 5A-level scenic spot.
Lotus flowers by Dongting Lake in Xiangyin County. There are several hectares of lotus planted in the lake.
We rested at Lanxi Town at noon. The weather was hot, so after lunch, we rested for a while and then continued. After reaching Yiyang city, we found a place to repair the bike and then continued. Around 6 pm, we arrived in Taojiang County town and decided to end the day's journey and stay there.
Day 4, 2014.09.23, Taojiang County - Anhua County, 107 km cycled
Last night, we washed and organized our gear and went to bed very late. This morning, we woke up naturally and didn't set off until 10:30 am. We cycled along the Zijiang River all the way, with beautiful scenery and clear water like a mirror. The road consisted of one small slope after another, which was relatively easy. At around 12 pm, we looked back at a section of uphill road we had just cycled.
Zijiang River, also known as Zishui, is a tributary of the Yangtze River. The left source, Nanshui, originates from Beiqingshan in Chengbu Miao Autonomous County, and the right source, Fuyishui, originates from Yuechengling in Ziyuan County, Guangxi. The two rivers meet at Shuangjiangkou in Shaoyang County to form the Zijiang River. It flows through Shaoyang, Xinhua, Anhua, Taojiang, Yiyang and other cities and counties, and enters Dongting Lake at Ganxigang in Yiyang City. It is 653 km long with a drainage area of 28,142 square kilometers. The mountains on the west side of the main stream are close, making the basin narrow and ribbon-like. The upper and middle reaches have many bends and dangerous shoals. The section crossing the Xuefeng Mountains is extremely steep and dangerous, earning it the name "Beach River" or "Mountain River." It is one of the four major rivers in Hunan.
Anhua County, under the jurisdiction of Yiyang City, Hunan Province, is located in the middle reaches of the Zijiang River. It was called "Meishan" in ancient times and is the birthplace of Meishan culture and the hometown of Chinese dark tea.
Masked female rider
Sunset over the Zijiang River
Scenery along the road, all gentle slopes like this, with water on one side and mountains on the other.
Day 5, 2014.09.24, Anhua County - Xupu County, 104 km cycled
The newly built public security office building in Anhua County, majestic and grand, not yet in use. This was where we set up our tent the night before.
Shortly after leaving Anhua county town, we arrived at Zhexi Reservoir. The houses on the river island were truly enviable. Zhexi Reservoir is located in the middle reaches of the Zijiang River in Anhua County, Yiyang City, Hunan Province, 15 km from the county town. Zhexi Reservoir was built in the 1950s and is now a scenic tourist area. The starting point of the scenic area is a magnificent dam 330 meters long and 104 meters high, like a rainbow spanning the north and south of the Zijiang River. There is a ship lock on the north and a road tunnel on the south.
Looking at the ribbon-like mountain road in the distance that we were about to take, we were both excited and pained. Excitement was for the unknown scenery, and pain was for the constantly pedaling legs. After crossing several such heavy mountains, we arrived at Kuixi Town at noon. We rested in the town for a long time before recovering a bit and continuing.
The afternoon road was easier than the morning, with some small slopes. Soon we entered Huaihua and easily cycled to Xupu.
Day 6, 2014.09.25, Xupu County - Huaihua City, 104 km cycled
Woke up naturally in the morning and set off at 8:30 am. Before leaving, we asked the innkeeper about the road ahead. There were several mountains ahead of Xupu County, with S-shaped roads. It seemed today's road conditions were similar to yesterday's. Not far from Xupu, we saw the first S-shaped mountain road. After crossing this one, there were three or four more, along with some small hills. The maximum speed downhill reached 60 km/h. The mountain roads were too steep, and the downhill speed was too fast.
At 11 am, we cycled along the Yuanjiang River for a long stretch. The roadside scenery always comforted us when we were exhausted, giving us the motivation to continue.
Yuanjiang River, also known as Yuanshui, is a tributary of Dongting Lake in the Yangtze River basin. It flows through Guizhou and Hunan provinces and is the second largest river in Hunan Province. The green river water flows slowly around the lush green mountains, fully displaying the tenderness of the water town.
At 12:30 pm, we arrived at Huomachong Town. The afternoon was still spent on mountain roads. Some mountains had short uphill sections, and we could ride to the top in one go.
By around 4 pm, we reached a section of road under construction. The road conditions were terrible, with about five or six kilometers of muddy roads.
We arrived in Huaihua City around 7 pm. We planned to rest here the next day to recover before tackling the increasingly difficult road ahead.
Day 7, 2014.09.27, Huaihua City - Yuping Dong Autonomous County, 128 km cycled
After leaving Huaihua, we entered Guizhou Province. From Huaihua, our cycling route became National Highway 320.
Morning scenery of the Yuanjiang River, quiet and beautiful
Huaihua Memorial Hall of the Victory of the Chinese People's War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression
Zhijiang Dong Autonomous County, under the jurisdiction of Huaihua City, Hunan Province. Located in western Hunan Province, central Huaihua City.
Beautiful scenery of Zhijiang Dong Autonomous County. It's rare to see such clear rivers in a city.
Entering Xinhuang Dong Autonomous County
The sparkling Yuanjiang River, gentle and affectionate.
At 5:40 pm, we cycled to Dalong Town, the first town in Yuping Dong Autonomous County, Guizhou Province. The road had steep slopes. Unlike the gentle plains before, the mountain roads here were somewhat despairing. Almost every day was spent on endless uphill journeys.
Entering Guizhou, there were more and more ethnic minority features. Guizhou is a mountainous region, so cycling in Guizhou was also the most difficult part of this trip. Along the way, we encountered many beautiful places, including the vast Dongting Lake, the clear Yuanjiang River, and the deep-flowing Zijiang River. The scenery along the way was captivating, but the mist floating in the air always covered our hearts like a chaotic shadow. Our determination to pursue a clear sky became stronger with the difficult mountain roads.
Thus, the first part of the trilogy of cycling to Dali is completed. Stay tuned for the next two public accounts, the Guizhou section and the Yunnan section.
