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- 10 Years of Living in Dali • Journey 1 of Cycling to Dali in 2014: Yongxiu County, Jiangxi to Xinhuang Dong Autonomous County, Hunan
Day 8 – September 28, 2014 – Yuping Dong Autonomous County to Taijiang County – 120 km cycled
Another day of getting up early and struggling over mountains. Woke up at 5 AM, set off at 5:30. It wasn't until an hour later that the sky began to brighten. We arrived at Cengong County at 7 AM. Along the way, we saw a billboard for Zhenyuan Ancient Town. We really wanted to visit, but it was 30 km off National Highway 320. We gritted our teeth and reluctantly passed it by. Zhenyuan Ancient Town is a famous town in Zhenyuan County, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, Guizhou. We'd seen photos online — it truly looks beautiful. Hopefully we'll get a chance to go someday.
Sunrise over Cengong County
After leaving Cengong County, we spent the entire morning cycling over mountain roads — a testament to how rugged and difficult the terrain was. By 11 AM, when we reached Sansui County, we felt completely drained, as if the day's energy was already spent. All we wanted was to find a place to fill our stomachs and get some proper sleep.
Although the Mid-Autumn Festival had long passed, the midday sun was still scorching hot. We were too exhausted to face the equally rough road ahead that afternoon. So we found a corner in an empty duck trading market by the roadside and took an incredibly luxurious nap.
Encountering a downhill stretch like this was cause for celebration.
Tailie Town — a place rich in Dong ethnic culture, with buildings lining the road in this distinctive style.
Tailie Town is located in the southwestern part of Sansui County, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, Guizhou.
After a tough climb to the top of the mountain, we stopped by the roadside to take in the panoramic view of a Dong village. Scenery like this was deeply soothing. We really wished we could stop right here and never leave.
Around 5 PM, we arrived at Jianhe County. We passed many steep mountain roads along the way, but by now we had gradually adapted to Guizhou's mountainous terrain, so it wasn't too bad — we still had enough energy to enjoy the views.
Leaving Jianhe County, we saw an expressway stretching across the mountaintop, climbing higher and higher. I guessed that the road to Taijiang would definitely involve crossing a big mountain. Sure enough, after riding a short distance, we hit another mountain — and this time it was all gravel roads. It took over 30 minutes to reach a flat area. Thinking we'd made it to the top, we stopped to catch our breath. But as we moved forward, we realized the road kept climbing. Another 20 minutes brought us to the actual summit. This mountain road, taking less than an hour, had once again drained the energy we had barely recovered.
The descent was no easier. The slope was so steep and the speed so high that for safety, we had to brake constantly. There was even a washboard section that bounced us violently — every jolt felt like we were about to be thrown off, only to be yanked back. By then it was dark, and we still had 8 km to go before reaching Taijiang County. We put on our headlamps and continued cycling. After laboriously climbing a one-kilometer uphill, we coasted downhill all the way into Taijiang. The brightly lit county offered us the food and shelter we desperately needed.
Day 9 – September 29, 2014 – Taijiang County to Kaili City, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture – 49 km cycled
Sometime last night, heavy rain began to fall. We listened to the sound of rain as we looked for excuses to slack off. We slept in naturally, woke up at 7:30, packed up, ate breakfast, and didn't set off until 9 AM. A Dong village after the rain.
Mountain scenery
When we finally got a downhill stretch, the road surface was utterly ruined — nothing but muddy paths with steep slopes that made slipping easy. We had to dismount and push our bikes.
The rain grew heavier. We put on our raincoats and pressed on. Large sections of the road were under construction, making it impossible to gain any speed. At noon, we were still 12 km from Kaili. We didn't arrive until 2:30 PM — having covered only 49 km in half a day, an unprecedented crawl. Exhausted in both body and spirit, we decided not to push further. We'd leave the remaining hardships for tomorrow.
Day 10 – September 30, 2014 – Kaili City, Qiandongnan to Guiding County – 113 km cycled
Woke up at 5:30 AM, set off at 6:30. We enjoyed the smoothest ride through downtown Kaili — but once we reached Xiasi Ancient Town, the suffering began anew.
We spotted a magnificent hotel in Kaili City by the roadside.
Xiasi Ancient Town is a national 4A-level scenic spot and a provincial-level scenic area in Guizhou. Located upstream of the Qingshui River in the west-southwest part of Kaili City, we were in too much of a hurry to stop and explore — we only caught a distant glimpse from the roadside.
Leaving Xiasi Ancient Town, the real mountain roads stretched endlessly ahead. Five to six kilometers of uphill awaited us.
At the summit, there was a stretch of flat road. Farmers were harvesting and threshing rice in the paddies on both sides. It reminded me of working in the fields as a child — they were using the same manual threshing machine we used back then. That was twenty years ago.
At 2:20 PM, as soon as we entered Qiannan Buyi and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, a torrential downpour began. We took shelter by the roadside. The rain soon stopped, and we moved on.
Dark clouds filled the sky. This industrial area was heavily polluted — the thick smoke from chimneys merged with the storm clouds, creating an apocalyptic atmosphere.
By 4 PM, the rain came and went intermittently. Heavy fog clung to the mountains. Our strength was clearly failing. With over 20 km still to go to Guiding, we lacked the courage to keep cycling. So we got off and walked, pushing our bikes for a long stretch of mountain road.
Day 11 – October 1, 2014 – Guiding County to Guiyang City – 78 km cycled
We set off after 9 AM, knowing full well that another day of mountain warfare lay ahead. Since it was a battle, we figured we might as well take it slow. True to form, the roads were uniformly treacherous — mostly under construction, bumpy and uneven, littered with large rocks that made cycling impossible. Our morning haul was pitiful: barely 20 km.
We had entered Guiyang's jurisdiction. Outside the city, the roads were dreadful. Only upon entering the urban area did conditions improve.
A tunnel lay ahead. Passing through it, we entered downtown Guiyang.
Days of continuous mountain crossings had worn us down. We decided to rest the next day in Guiyang — recharge our energy and soothe our aching limbs. It was our first time in Guiyang, but we had no desire to explore the city. We just slept the entire day.
Day 12 – October 3, 2014 – Guiyang City to Anshun City – 116 km cycled
Woke up at 6 AM, set off at 6:50. It took over an hour just to find the right road in the city. Once we got onto Provincial Highway 102, we ran into a cycling group heading from Guiyang to Anshun. After exchanging a few words, they warmly invited us to join them.
Arriving at Qingzhen City, the national highway was closed for reconstruction. So we followed the local cycling group onto the expressway. For cyclists, riding on an expressway is one of life's greatest joys — rivaling the four classic pleasures of life. Unfortunately, we only enjoyed it briefly before having to exit back onto Provincial Highway 102.
Learning that we had cycled all the way from distant Jiangxi, the Guiyang riders looked after us throughout the journey. Someone was always offering snacks and encouragement. At lunch, they insisted on treating us and refused to let us pay. Thanks to them, two Jiangxi natives tasted their first authentic wild mushroom hotpot — an unforgettable experience. We exchanged contact information with several kind-hearted riders. Over the following decade, we stayed in touch, evolving from chance acquaintances into close friends. Brother Deng was one of them — he visited us in Dali multiple times.
The road to Anshun that afternoon was relatively flat. Riding within the large group, chatting and laughing, we felt time fly for the first time. Knowing we were headed to Dali, they told us Guizhou also had many wonderful places worth staying. By then, our understanding of Dali was growing, as was our longing for it. It never occurred to us that mountainous Guizhou might hide the paradise we were seeking. But we decided to see Dali first. Upon arriving in Anshun, they invited us to dinner again. Too embarrassed to impose further, we reluctantly said goodbye to each one.
Day 13 – October 4, 2014 – Anshun City to Yongning Town – 88 km cycled
Woke up at 6 AM, set off at 6:40. After cycling 3 km, we had breakfast at Yaopu Town.
Road under construction.
The morning ride felt exhilarating — mostly flat roads and downhills.
We arrived at the edge of Huangguoshu Waterfall Scenic Area.
We were upstream of Huangguoshu Waterfall. The distant mountains ahead marked the top of the falls. The scenery was stunning. It was the third day of National Holiday — the place was swarming with people and cars. Vehicles lined both sides of the road at the foot of the mountain.
Huangguoshu Baling River Bridge — as we descended, the bridge's top seemed to pierce the clouds. Located in the hilly plateau region of western Guizhou, the Baling River Bridge is the first super-large bridge spanning the Baling River Grand Canyon on the Shanghai-Kunming National Highway. Ranked first in China and sixth in the world among long-span steel truss suspension bridges, it is the most technically sophisticated bridge ever built in Guizhou.
Below the bridge stretched 5 km of continuous downhill — excellent road conditions, beautiful scenery, lush mountains and clear waters.
A village beside the bridge. I've always envied people living deep in the mountains — I feel they're happier than those in big cities.
The distant Baling River Bridge was magnificent. It holds numerous "firsts" and is a unique landmark within the Huangguoshu scenic area. For us, though, it meant hardship: we had to descend from the mountaintop to the river valley below the bridge, then climb back up to another mountain. Ten minutes downhill, hours uphill.
Descending from the bridge to the valley, we reached Duangiao Town. Soon, heavy rain began to fall. We waited by the roadside until it stopped before continuing. The morning was all downhill; the afternoon was entirely uphill. Sounds contradictory, but fair — and painful. In the distance lay Guanling Buyi and Miao Autonomous County.
Leaving Guanling, the uphill slope was too steep to cycle. We had to dismount and walk. We happened to meet a young man hiking to Tibet and walked alongside him for a stretch. Mountains under distant dark clouds — Guizhou's mountains all look like lumps, haha.
After the rain stopped, we resumed cycling. Occasional short downhills appeared, but there were still 15 km of uphill to Yongning Town. We were so exhausted we alternated between walking and riding. Head down, pedaling with all our might, a little kid by the roadside asked where we were going. I could barely breathe, let alone answer. By the time I reached the top and shouted "Dali!" looking back, she was gone.
Day 14 – October 5, 2014 – Yongning Town to Pu'an County – 100 km cycled
Woke up a little after 6 AM, set off at 7:30. We had to climb a mountain right from the start. The entire day was spent alternating between uphill and downhill: 4 km continuous downhill, 5 km uphill, then another 4 km, 7 km, and 1 km downhill stretches — the rest all uphill. Total distance by early afternoon: 50 km. We arrived at Qinglong County around 1 PM.
During a downhill stretch, the road curved so sharply ahead that I forced myself to brake and take a photo.
The road wound around mountainsides — sometimes hugging the same mountain, sometimes leaping from one peak to another.
Descending to the valley floor, we saw a steel bridge spanning between two mountains. Time to start climbing again.
Successfully summiting one mountain, we soon began descending again. A rare flat stretch gave us a moment to catch our breath. Dark clouds loomed overhead, threatening rain at any moment.
We lost count of how many mountains we encountered or crossed. That day, our lives were spent entirely in the mountains, our strength surrendered to one mysterious, towering peak after another. At noon, we arrived at Qinglong County, nestled deep in the mountains.
Qinglong County belongs to Qianxinan Buyi and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, located in the southwestern and northeastern corners of the prefecture. It sits in the middle section of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, serving as a connecting link in the Bijie-Shuicheng-Xingyi Economic Circle.
As early as one million years ago, Qinglong was home to wild tea trees — a birthplace of the world's tea plants and tea culture. In 1980, the world's only fossilized tea seed was discovered here, proving that "the world's tea originated in China, and China's tea originated in Yunnan-Guizhou." "Qinglong Green Tea" and "Qinglong Glutinous Coix Seed" are listed as national geographical indication protection products. "Qinglong Navel Orange," known as "China's Famous Fruit," has been certified as a green food product by the Ministry of Agriculture and is a well-known trademark of Guizhou Province.
The Twenty-Four Turns — a famous attraction near Qinglong County, similar to Tibet's Seventy-Two Turns but shorter, only 4 km long. Many visitors come specifically to ride this ribbon-like mountain road instead of National Highway 320, as it shortens the journey by over 10 km.
Each turn of the Twenty-Four Turns has a stone marker.
Many tourists drive this route. Viewed from above, the road layers upon itself spectacularly.
Twenty-Four Turns — safely navigated from the first turn to the twenty-fourth.
Leaving the Twenty-Four Turns, there was a downhill stretch straight to the low river valley, followed by another 20 km of uphill. By the time we reached Jiangxipo Town at 5 PM, we still had 24 km to go to Pu'an County — another grueling leg ahead.
Along the way came a few kilometers of uphill. After descending to the lowest point, there were still about 6 km of uphill left. Our energy was nearly spent. Darkness had fully fallen. We got off our bikes, turned on our headlamps, and pushed forward through continuous autumn rain. We arrived at Pu'an County at 8:30 PM — never had we felt so miserable.
Day 15 – October 6, 2014 – Pu'an County to Pan County (Hongguo) – 74 km cycled
We indulged ourselves again — slept in and didn't set off until 8:30 AM.
After cycling a short uphill, the distant Pu'an County town appeared shrouded in mist, looming faintly like a mirage.
The autumn morning fog was thick. Villages by the roadside were hidden in dense haze. Visibility was poor, and the weather was bitterly cold.
Sanbanqiao Town — still endless ups and downs. Gradually, the mist dissipated, revealing a noticeably clear sky. Distant scenery slowly came into view.
We arrived at Liuguan Town at 1 PM. When we set off again at 2 PM, we discovered the rear tire had gone flat. It held air for a few dozen meters before deflating again. While repairing it by the roadside, we met Brother Jiang, who was preparing to cycle from Liuguan (his hometown) to Hongguo. Brother Jiang was a skilled cyclist — capable of stunts and even building his own bikes. He helped patch my tire, and we rode together all the way to Hongguo.
Brother Jiang adjusted my bike. He was knowledgeable and professional about bicycles.
We talked a lot along the way and quickly became familiar. The warm-hearted Brother Jiang insisted on taking us to try the famous local grilled tofu — absolutely delicious. We've eaten it many times since in Yunnan, but none ever matched the taste from that roadside stall. That evening in Hongguo, he insisted on treating us to beef hotpot. Early the next morning, he specially bought us a set of tire repair tools. Soon after, he bid us farewell and boarded a train heading south.
Brother Jiang is a few months older than me but always called me "Brother Long." I suggested he call me "Xiao Long" instead, but he said we should just call each other "brother." Ever since that meeting, we've stayed connected on WeChat, chatting occasionally. Once, I planned to visit him with my family when passing through Guizhou on the way back to our hometown, but it never happened. It's been ten years since we last met, but we still remember each other like old friends. Many times, he's messaged asking if we'll return to our hometown for the New Year — so we could stop by his hometown and visit, and he could prepare to welcome us in advance.
That concludes our cycling experience in Guizhou. We were incredibly fortunate to meet so many kind-hearted people and lucky to call them friends. We cycled through Guizhou for eight days, and I can sum it up in two words: mountain crossing.
As we set off again, the first county in Yunnan awaited us: Fuyuan. In the next installment, we'll talk about what brought us to Dali, and share the story of "A San."
