Before the Spring Festival, the Lujiangba area already had the warm breath of late spring and early summer, with heat waves rising from the road. The breeze outside the window made people feel drowsy, wanting only to stop under the shade of a tree for a long nap. The daytime here seems never to know the chill of autumn and winter; there is abundant sunshine and heat, so on the gently sloping Lujiangba, you can see mango, longan, and other tropical fruit plantations everywhere, as well as the tall and straight kapok trees. Higher up in the mountains grows the unique Baoshan small-grain coffee.
Driving north along the drowsy national road by the Nujiang River toward the Double Rainbow Bridge, the flowing emerald green water followed us from afar and near, like a mischievous child teasing us, never coming close enough to be seen clearly. The surging green was so thick and pure, completely different from the green on the surface along the riverbanks. Many years ago, I had a fanciful idea: to hike along the Nujiang River, immerse myself in the endless roar and rush of the river, and search for ancient trees on rocks unknown to others in the riverside jungles. After an experience of hiking north from Lushui along the river to the Yunnan-Tibet border, I gave up that ridiculous idea. Perhaps I couldn't even complete five kilometers a day, unless I were a white-capped redstart.
The Double Rainbow Bridge spans the surging Nujiang Grand Canyon. It is an ancient iron-chain bridge with a history of over two hundred years, first built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. The uniqueness of the Double Rainbow Bridge lies in its pier, which is a huge natural rock in the middle of the river, forming a double-arch structure. Seen from afar, it looks like two rainbows hanging over the river, hence the name Double Rainbow Bridge. The bridge was not only an important passage on the ancient Southern Silk Road but also witnessed the flames of war during the War of Resistance against Japan. Today, it retains its essential function as a bridge, providing convenience for locals on both sides, while also becoming a scenic spot with both historical and natural significance.
Walking onto the Double Rainbow Bridge, the thick wooden planks on the deck have turned white and cracked from wind and sun, but they are still extremely sturdy. Tourists unfamiliar with its strength always hesitate, taking half steps forward with fear, while locals ride their motorcycles from one end to the other, speeding away like the wind. When we descended from the national road toward the Double Rainbow Bridge, we encountered a lively wedding procession. The bride and groom, surrounded by young relatives and friends, entered a pavilion by the river and stayed there for a long time. They were so joyful and boisterous; I thought they might be holding some wedding ceremony there, but what ceremony could it be?
The river below the bridge crashed against the rocks and rushed downstream, only to be pushed back by the rocks. Thus, the water had to find another smooth path, jostling and crowding, creating ripples before merging into the busy river. All the water that hit the rocks only understood how to go after the impact. We walked back and forth on the bridge but couldn't find a path down to the giant rock in the river. Yet many tourists were standing there; we didn't know how they got down. Children stood on the shore screaming and laughing, while adults sat on the rocks, gazing at the intense green in contemplation. How much amazement and calm were hidden in those silent gazes?
Actually, the roadside fire-roasted coffee was our original purpose for this trip. There were so many people coming to try it that we got a number and waited in the crowded crowd for over ten minutes. After watching the fiery production scene, we finally had a pot of fire-roasted Typica (in Yunnan, it seems anything can be fire-roasted, including coffee). It was slightly bitter, quickly followed by a sweet aftertaste. We hadn't been seated long before someone else stood nearby, waiting for us to leave so they could try it. The cool breeze hadn't yet blown away our heat, but we decided to leave anyway. It was too noisy here, everything too rushed. Better to go watch the river.
