I always seem unable to fully know this small ancient city. Even though its long history and quaint streets are fascinating, and the deep, quiet alleys and the calligraphy and paintings on ordinary doors reveal a peaceful tranquility, I can never find an entrance to delve deeper, to peek beyond the obvious surface into its true face hidden in time and space. This is Jianchuan Ancient City, which appears very rustic, small, and dim compared to the shining stars of Dali Ancient City and Shaxi Ancient Town. But fortunately, it thus has a strong sense of everyday life, solid and free.
Woken up in the morning by a Bai dialect cry of "Douhua...", the shouts drifting from under the thick stone slabs emerge in the quietest moment of the ancient city, as if followed by the leisurely sound of horse hooves. The hazy morning light carries a warmth, a flow of the city's rich life, a warmth only felt by those who have lived here long.
In a breakfast shop that has been operating for over thirty years by the roadside, steam rises, bringing warmth to diners in the cold winter. The owners are several elderly Bai women, who serve each customer unhurriedly. In this small shop of about ten square meters, whether locals or tourists, no one speaks loudly or hurries. They sit in the warm steam, waiting quietly, and enjoy a satisfying meal of rice noodles and braised pork piled high in bowls.
The morning streets are clean and spotless. Sunlight gently spreads over the ancient streets, treetops, pedestrians' shoulders, and the cloudless mountain ridges in the distance. It's a market day. On the wide street outside the city, people from all directions come to do business. They set up their stalls early, busy serving residents who come early to shop.
Every time I visit Jianchuan Ancient City, I discover new changes. Jianyang Tower has finally been completed and opened to the public. This landmark new building of Jianchuan Ancient City is a living representative of the hometown of wood carving. It, along with a series of new buildings nearby, eagerly awaits visitors.
A small wood carving shop nearby is open for business.
To find the everyday life of Jianchuan Ancient City, you need to walk through the narrow streets and deep alleys on the west side. These Ming Dynasty residential buildings follow a chessboard-like layout, as troops were stationed here during the Yuan Dynasty, forming three areas: upper, middle, and lower barracks. The streets at the four gates connect in a T-shape, straight but not wide, about one zhang (3.3 meters) wide; the alleys are long but not straight, no more than four chi (1.3 meters) wide, curving and bending, not suitable for vehicles, only for walking, fully reflecting the tranquility of the ancient city's residential layout.
The residential buildings in Jianchuan Ancient City are famous for their unique layouts of "three rooms and one screen wall" and "four courtyards with five patios." Entering a house, you first see an exquisite screen wall painted with colorful patterns, such as landscapes, flowers, birds, or mythological stories, lifelike and impressive. Passing the screen wall, you enter the courtyard. The main house faces east, tall and spacious, while the side rooms are slightly lower, echoing the main house. In the middle of the courtyard is an open patio, surrounded by rooms. Potted plants are placed in the patio, adding vitality and energy to the whole courtyard.
Strolling through the streets and alleys of the ancient city, you often see exquisite wood and stone carvings. These carvings are found on doors, windows, beams, and screen walls of residences. Every cut reveals the craftsman's superb skill and love for life. Whether delicate human figures or vivid animal and plant patterns, they are lifelike and breathtaking.
Making the best use of everything, in Jianchuan Ancient City, you can see these custom-made wood carvings on electricity meter boxes everywhere, cute and lovely.
Calligraphy and paintings pasted on the doors of every household. The couplet culture of ancient residential buildings in Jianchuan Ancient City best reflects its rich cultural and life atmosphere. Every time we enter the residential area of the ancient city, we slow down and appreciate the calligraphy and paintings on the grand or simple doors. The beautiful meanings they convey are the simplest wishes of generations of residents and a reflection of their plain inner lives.
