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Autumn Colors of the Big and Small Huadianba Meadows – A Hiking Paradise in the Depths of Dali’s Cangshan Mountains

四弦秋四弦秋Travel Log2年前22823
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When I first went to Huadianba, it was midsummer and the vegetation was lush, but two full days of heavy rain blocked the blue sky and white clouds over the alpine meadow, so we missed out. When we returned to Huadianba, autumn had deepened, and the rainy season had passed with summer. The vast land was exposed under the pure clear sky, and the strong winter winds had not yet arrived—it was the perfect time for a long trip. To make up for the previous regret, we traveled light and fast, carrying our little one and hurrying to that quiet place far from the hustle and bustle.

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This time, although it was sunny and not muddy, the walk was not easy. The little one was much heavier than before; carrying her on my shoulders, I had to stop and gasp for breath after just a few steps uphill. But she sat on her parents' shoulders, enjoying the beautiful scenery near and far. When she got tired, she fell asleep on her father's shoulder. The mountain path was difficult, but we knew that after crossing the mountains, a vast purity awaited us. Autumn Huadianba was completely different from the rainy season—a whole new scene. The thick autumn charm and leisurely cattle and horses were all there. The distant sky and close autumn colors dotted the treetops. Wanting to go deeper into the mountains, the shepherd boy pointed the way far ahead. Roaming this vast alpine grassland, we felt like fish in water, carefree and content. The autumn colors and autumn sun did not disappoint; lying on the grass, the little one rode her father like a horse, having a great time. The stone houses at the foot of the mountain were shelters for cowboys and livestock. If farmers lived there, it would be a different scene. Unfortunately, the high mountain soil was too barren for farming, only suitable for grazing. The blue sky was as clean as an undyed cloth; we walked the whole way without seeing a single cloud. With clouds, the mountains and sky would have been much more lively. After a day of climbing, we reached the Big Huadianba around 4 p.m. The planned summit of the Small Huadianba had to be canceled, and we stayed overnight at the medicinal herb farm.

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The Small Huadianba is located east of the Big Huadianba, at an altitude of about 3,600 meters. Because its grassland area is small and it is adjacent to the Big Huadianba, it is called Small Huadianba. When Xiao Jiang introduced it to us, he said the scenery was even better than the Big Huadianba, so that was our destination. The next morning, just after sunrise, we quickly washed up, packed our gear, and headed east into the mountains. The path to Small Huadianba was different from the one we took into the mountains before; the nearly vertical mountain trail made walking difficult. Probably because few people go up there and there are not many cattle or sheep, there was no ready-made path leading directly to the destination. Relying solely on Xiao Jiang's memory, we searched step by step for intermittent goat trails, advancing with difficulty. This time, the little one was completely carried by her father, because even without any load, I was gasping for breath, let alone carrying her. Fortunately, the vegetation on the mountain was low and sparse, so we could go straight up, but what should have been a two-hour journey took us half a day. It was already afternoon when we arrived at the herder's house in Small Huadianba.

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The mountains around Small Huadianba were much lower than elsewhere, and the autumn cold was heavier than at the foot of the mountain. Standing on the stone wall of the herder's house, we could see the entire Small Huadianba at a glance. The land here was barren, and supplies were brought up from below. Drinking water came from the stream that ran through Small Huadianba. Cattle and sheep also drank, bathed, and played in the same stream. After we regained our strength, we set up our tent on a flat patch by the stream. The wind on the plateau howled past our ears; without the sun, we would have frozen to the bone. The best thing here was to lie down and take a nap. The little one followed her uncle all over Small Huadianba, chasing cattle and sheep, so happy she forgot to go home. The clean sky had not a single cloud, as if the blue sky was too holy for clouds to dare to intrude. The sunset passed too quickly; before we could say goodbye, it slipped to the other side of the earth. At night, the mountain wind howled, the moon was bright like water, and the chill grew layer by layer. When dawn came, we were surprised by the sight of everything covered in silver. The morning sun sprinkled on this crystal-clear frost, reflecting a colorful and magical world. We hurriedly climbed to a high place, afraid we might miss the chance to fully appreciate this pure world. The frost came and went quickly; once the sun shone, it disappeared without a trace. Beneath the cold heavy frost was a vibrant and lively world. Such exquisite beauty only shone before us after enduring so much hardship. The stream was covered with a thin layer of ice, while down below, frost would not appear for at least another month or two. The morning sun had already dried the frost on the mountain, and the white world on the grassland was doomed. Here, we could watch the sunset in the evening and the sunrise in the morning, like idle clouds and wild cranes, leisurely and carefree. When the frost melted, the cattle and sheep would come out again to adorn the mountains and rivers.

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四弦秋

四弦秋

“目送归鸿,手挥五弦”。总想在面目全非的尘世里,寻一条闲云野鹤的出路。幸而有一片诗词汪洋,给了我许多的美好。时常,我荡舟其中,静静享受那一片美好。更庆幸岸边站立的人,喜欢我喜欢的美好,并保我免于饥寒,专注这欢喜。
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