Previous Episodes:
- 10-Year Chronicle of Living in Dali • Journey 1: Cycling to Dali in 2014: From Yongxiu County, Jiangxi to Xinhuang Dong Autonomous County, Hunan
- 10-Year Chronicle of Living in Dali • Journey 2: Cycling to Dali in 2014: From Yuping Dong Autonomous County, Guizhou to Panzhou City
Day 16, October 8, 2014: Pan County (Hongguo) – Fuyuan County, 42 km
After resting a full day in Hongguo, we began to adapt to the mountain roads, but soon we would reach Yunnan. We set off after 8 a.m. Having ascended to a certain altitude, the roads were not as difficult as before, with gentle slopes. We entered Yunnan at 10 a.m. and arrived in Fuyuan County at noon.
At the Yunnan border, entering Yunnan felt more hopeful, as we were getting closer to the destination.
While eating in Fuyuan, I suddenly remembered that my friend A-San was from Yunnan, but I didn't know exactly where. After a phone call, I learned she was from Fuyuan. Knowing we were in Fuyuan, she quickly came to meet us. A-San, a nice girl who gave herself the nickname A-San, loves off-road cycling. She has a somewhat carefree personality but speaks softly. Around 2014, she lived in Dali for a while, often posting photos of Cangshan and Erhai, which made us yearn for such beauty. Before the ride, we talked about wanting to live in Lhasa, but she said Dali was more suitable for living, so we cycled there.
I also got to know A-San through cycling. We didn't chat much usually, having met only once in Hangzhou. This was our second meeting. Despite that, she insisted we stay at her place for a night before leaving. Thinking it was not easy to come here, we agreed. In the afternoon, we had a sound sleep at her home, feeling more comfortable than we had in ages. Dinner was cooked by A-San's mother, featuring local Fuyuan specialties, and it was delicious. Her mother was very hospitable and even asked us to stay a few more days in Fuyuan. We were very grateful.
Later, when we arrived in Dali, she introduced us to several friends there, including our first friend in Dali, Brother Ding. Through Brother Ding, we got to know many Yi brothers from Weishan. About 80% of our friends in Dali are from Weishan.
Fuyuan's iconic tower – Wenming Tower
Sunset in Fuyuan
Day 17, October 9, 2014: Fuyuan County – Malong County, 104 km
At 9:30, we bid farewell to A-San's mother. As we set off, A-San and her friend drove alongside to guide us. After getting on National Highway 320, we truly said goodbye and began a new day of mountain climbing, with over 10 km of uphill ahead.
Scenery from the mountaintop. Having rested well these two days, the mountain roads went smoothly. After crossing this mountain, the roads ahead were mostly flat. We arrived at Baishui Town at noon and continued at 2 p.m.
Scenery along the road
Leaving Fuyuan, the ride was smooth, unlike the harsh cycling in Guizhou. We arrived in Qujing City at 4 p.m. Before leaving Qujing, there was a long uphill stretch that looked like downhill.
We arrived in Malong County at 7 p.m.
Day 18, October 10, 2014: Malong County – Kunming City, 136 km
We set off at 8 a.m. The first 30 km were relatively flat, but then it was all gravel roads. The scenery was not particularly special, and because the road was bad, we had no mood to enjoy it.
Encountering such flat roads during the ride, even the wind felt sweet.
While eating lunch by the roadside, the owner told us that the road ahead was under construction all the way to Kunming.
We cycled on such dirt roads all day, choked by dust and eating dirt.
After climbing a long steep slope, Kunming Changshui International Airport was on the right.
Passing through Dabanqiao Town, the improved road quickly turned bad again, full of potholes.
We arrived in downtown Kunming in the evening. We planned to stay another day here, as we were close to our destination and not in a hurry. We could visit Dianchi Lake.
Yunnan Ethnic Village, rich in ethnic minority culture.
Dianchi Lake in this season had quite strong winds and waves.
Day 19, October 12, 2014: Kunming City – Lufeng County, 110 km
At 8 a.m., just as we were about to set off, it started raining heavily. We waited for the rain to stop and left at 9 a.m. Today's road was also friendly, with only small gentle slopes. Light rain drizzled occasionally but didn't affect cycling; we didn't need to return in the slanting wind and drizzle.
Most of the morning was on such flat and wide roads.
28 km from Lufeng, we met a group of local cyclists. Chatting with them, we learned there was an 8 km downhill ahead. This photo was taken while braking hard on the descent.
Day 20, October 13, 2014: Lufeng County – Nanhua County, 120 km
We woke up naturally and set off at 8:30. The ride was through mountains, with wet roads. Soon it started drizzling. We hadn't seen any breakfast shops since departure, so we didn't eat until we arrived at Yipinglang Town at 10 a.m., already starving.
Not far from Lufeng, the odometer reached 2000 km. This was the first long-distance ride of our lives.
Over 30 km of road stretched through the mountains. Here, the national highway was split by a long river valley into a single lane.
We had lunch at Cangling at 2:30 p.m. and set off after 3 p.m. A village along the way.
We arrived in Nanhua at 7 p.m.
Day 21, October 14, 2014: Nanhua County – Xiangyun County, 112 km
We set off at 9 a.m. Soon we climbed a few kilometers uphill. The weather was gloomy, but after 5-6 km of uphill, it cleared up. The blue sky and white clouds among the Yunnan mountains were breathtaking. Especially at the summit, watching clouds drift among the peaks felt like entering a fairyland. As a child from the plains, this was my first time seeing such scenery.
Looking down from the mountain, the distant peaks and villages seemed ethereal.
The highway weaved through the clouds, and we could clearly see cars emerging from them.
After crossing the mountaintop ahead, it was sunny all the way. Blue sky and white clouds awaited us.
Distant mountains and views.
Dali, we finally made it.
At the highest point, there was a downhill section. Tianshentang Township was not far ahead, but soon it was uphill again. The slopes increased, and many sections were gravel roads. For safety, we had to brake on descents, making our hands sore.
At a certain altitude, the land became flat and open. After entering Guizhou, it was rare to see such a large flat area.
Xiangyun Qinghai Lake, not the Qinghai Lake in Qinghai.
Day 22, October 15, 2014: Xiangyun County – Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture (Dali Old Town), 81 km
We set off at 8:30. After cycling over 20 km, we reached the last mountain leading to Dali. The uphill was about 7-8 km, followed by a downhill all the way to Dali city. The city was mostly flat, and we arrived at the old town after 3 p.m.
This plain was vast and beautiful. The mountain ahead directly blocked the way to Dali, but for us in good shape, it was no big deal.
After cycling this uphill section, we reached Fengyi Town in Dali.
Already at the mountaintop, the blue sky and white clouds felt like entering another world, completely different from our previous life.
Descending the mountain, we arrived in Dali Xiaguan city. Thinking this was the real Dali, we felt a bit disappointed and planned to rest a day before continuing to our original destination, Lhasa, Tibet. But Xiao Jiang, who was in Dali Old Town, told us that was the real Dali, so we continued to meet him.
Near Erhai Lake in Dali city, the blue in photos always seemed unreal, but seeing it in person proved otherwise.
Xingsheng Bridge in Dali city, Sixianqiu and Salonglong.
Seeing the legendary Cangshan for the first time. The white buildings at the foot of the mountain are Dali University, which we only learned after living in Dali for a long time. After cycling 20 km from Dali city, we finally arrived at Dali Old Town. Xiao Jiang was waiting by the roadside. When he saw me, my disheveled appearance almost made him not recognize me, covered in dust. He said he would treat us to dinner to welcome us.
I got to know Xiao Jiang through photography. He also loves cycling and is an outdoor enthusiast. We had only met once in Hangzhou. Later, when we settled by Erhai Lake, he would come to stay with us almost every year, climbing Cangshan, cycling around Erhai, and hiking Huadianba. Those days were as joyful as being a child.
Over 20 days of cycling was a physical and spiritual baptism for us. The most beautiful scenery is not enclosed within walls; it is like the bright moon and clear breeze nearby. As long as we pay sincere attention, we can embrace it all. Upon arriving in Dali, I didn't feel much joy; instead, I felt a bit lost.
The next day, we wandered around the old town like real tourists. My university art teacher, Mr. Huang, called to tell me that the school had started recruiting for an art design graduate program and asked if I wanted to join. After thinking for a moment, I declined his offer and decided to start a new life here.
Erhai Lake scenery at Caicun, Dali.
On the third day in Dali, we rented a small house in a village by Erhai Lake, beginning our family's nearly nine-year sojourn. A few days later, Juanjuan couldn't wait to fly back and bring our daughter to Dali for reunion.
Why did you only bring me to Dali now? At that time, there was only a narrow road around Erhai, with farmland on both sides. Every dusk, we would walk by the lake, watching the sunset.
Tyndall effect over Cangshan, Dali. Our rented house had no obstruction between us and Cangshan; from the terrace, we could see the entire mountain range.
Epilogue:
Cangshan and Erhai have both romance and tranquility. After considering various factors, we decided not to go to Lhasa and settled in Dali, living there for nine years. In 2017, our son was born, turning our family of three into four. We thought we would live forever in that small village by Erhai, but after the pandemic ended, the once quiet village was flooded with people overnight, like the Qiantang River's tidal bore. The village became crowded and noisy, and the landlord no longer rented to us. Seeing that the former peace was gone, we decided to move to Weishan Ancient Town to start a new, calm life there.
